Drinks writers are forced to consume the good, the bad, and the grotesque: IPAs in Rhode Island and old-ass Scotch, frilly cocktails and cupcake vodkas, chili beers and whatever the hell cachaça is. But there's one drink I've never been able to suck down: the Bloody Mary. It absolutely disgusts me. And as a longtime advocate of the drinking-before-noon ethos of yesteryear, I
need a good morning cocktail, of which there are only a few. Mimosas and Bellinis are lame, milk punches delicious but obscure, and thus I am left with the Bloody.
Brian Bartels wrote
The Bloody Mary: The Lore and Legend of a Cocktail Classic, with Recipes for Brunch and Beyond, which comes out this month. Bartles is also the beverage director for New York's Happy Cooking Hospitality Group, where he makes plenty of Bloody Marys at spots like Fedora and Bar Sardine. He and I met midday—on Valentine's Day no less—at Dante in Greenwich Village, which offers an "All Day Bloody Mary." His task? Help me learn to love it.
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