Is This the Best Steak in America?

How the buzzy 32-ounce steak from Dunsmoor gets made.

View in Browser  Tuesday, June 3, 2025 There's a restaurant in Los Angeles that serves an almost legendary steak. It's not a gastronomical take on red meat, but an old-fashioned hunk of beef cooked so perfectly it makes you feel sentimental. According to the chef, it can "reconnect you with memories of a steak cooked in someone's backyard long ago." This is a Proustian steak. Recently, Esquire's Jeff Gordinier spent a day at the restaurant to see how they make what might be the best steak in America, and he explains why it's so extraordinary. – Michael Sebastian, editor-in-chief   Plus: In praise of the great American chino When is Sinners streaming? Carhartt's summer sale on Amazon is major Is This the Best Steak in America? How the buzzy, 32-ounce steak at Los Angeles's Dunsmoor gets made. Steaks appear on menus all over Los Angeles, of course, but the one served at Dunsmoor, an American restaurant in the Glassell Park area, occupies a distinctive place in the city's culinary conversation. It is not quite right to say that people "revere" the Dunsmoor steak. That might suggest a sort of cheffy sorcery that transforms a slab of beef into a thing of wonder, an ode to the idea of steak, and that's not what's happening with the Dunsmoor steak. People who eat at Dunsmoor find the steak satisfying because it doesn't pretend to be anything other than what it is: a slab of beef, carefully cooked. It is a steak, as chef Brian Dunsmoor likes to explain, that can reconnect you with memories of a steak cooked in someone's backyard long ago. READ THE STORY Unfortunately, the "genius" of Project 2025 is picking up where Musk left off. Rusell Vought's devotion to his fellow citizens can be measured in millimeters. Charles P. Pierce runs down Russell Vought. >>  Senator Joni Ernst says to "embrace" Jesus instead of apologizing. We don't need Medicaid in heaven anyway. Charles P. Pierce on the Republican senator's non-apology. >> The MobLand Season 1 Finale Is the Definition of Chaos In MobLand, the characters seem to look at every scene like a choose-your-own-adventure game where they know every ending—and then choose the worst option. The Harrigans aren't the most successful mob family in London because they're sound businessmen; it's just that they just take out their competition as quickly and recklessly as possible. So, it's up to the family's fixer, Harry Da Souza (Hardy), to sort out their problems. And boy, do the Harrigans create problems. By Josh Rosenberg Is the Four Seasons Mattress Worth Five Stars? Plopping onto a Four Seasons bed is truly magical. Yet, underneath the fluffy duvet and atop the cloud-like mattress, I began to wonder: Is it the experience of being in a five-star hotel that makes this bed so wonderful or is it the mattress itself? I decided it was time to put it to the test. By Gaby Keiderling Follow Us Unsubscribe | Privacy Notice | CA Notice at Collection Esquire is a publication of Hearst Magazines. ©2025 Hearst Magazine Media, Inc. All Rights Reserved. This email was sent by Hearst Magazines, 300 West 57th Street, New York, NY 10019-3779