Shortly after a jet ski towed him onto his first wave of the day, Kai Lenny zipped across the top of a Nazaré monster and launched himself into an aerial 360. He landed, for a moment and change, with smooth dexterity, the front third of his board suspended over the rushing cliff of water. And then he skidded down the face of the wave—feet and board slipping forward, torso tumbling backwards, arms waving about in desperate search of the balance he almost never loses. It was gone. In that moment at the 2020 Nazaré Tow Surfing Challenge, Lenny cartwheeled into the abyss. This is big-wave surfing in the style of Kai Lenny, the 30-year-old from Maui who is doing things on giant swells that no one, outside his frequent tow-surf partner Lucas Chumbo, has ever done. |
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