At our Restaurant of the Year, Ilis in Brooklyn, they prepared the fish as it would have been done centuries ago, wrapped in bark and cooked over flames. Across the country at Poltergeist in Los Angeles, they gave us a wild, experimental take on the fish taco, which was dipped in masa and fried. Both felt genuine, and each was delicious. Honest innovation doesn't always work in the kitchen, but when it does, it's like rocket fuel for the soul. You leave not just full, not just filled with delight, but with a spark. It's a rare thing, but it's worth chasing. Consider this your map. |
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