I have been fortunate enough in my job to have visited the Arctic twice, the first time north of Hudson Bay in Canada, and the second time to a barrier island called Shishmaref in the Chukchi Sea between Alaska and Russia. The Arctic is the most extraordinary place, vast and wild and, in parts, utterly untamed. (Being in a tin motorboat in a river three feet from a swimming polar bear is something I'll never forget, especially that moment when he rolled onto his back and, quite casually, sniffed the air loudly, as if to say, "Go ahead, lunchmeat, fall out of the boat.) It is still all those things. But it is also broken, perhaps irretrievably.
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Wednesday, December 15, 2021
The Arctic Is Vast—And Broken
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