The Terror of 'Black Tie Optional' |
Cary Grant: top-notch tux-wearer. |
There are few words more guaranteed to send one into a sartorial tailspin than the dreaded "black tie optional" on an invitation. Be it a fancy wedding or a corporate event, it always leaves you guessing. Are you expected to overdeliver and go (A) full tux, or chill out and (B) rock up in a suit and sneakers? What if you're the only one in A or B? And which is worse, for heaven's sake? The answer is in you. Which is the whole problem. Once upon a time, doubt could not creep in. There's a very telling sequence in one of those old BBC Jeeves and Wooster episodes from the early '90s, with Jeeves, the valet, played by Stephen Fry and well-to-do bachelor Bertie Wooster played by Hugh Laurie (otherwise known to American TV audiences as Dr. House, but here in an eminently more twitty role; seek it out on YouTube, it's worth it just for the clothes). Jeeves is taking stock of the garms available in his employer's wardrobe. There's town wear and city wear. There's also, critically, eveningwear "formal" and eveningwear "informal." The informal bit is what you and I would call a tux. |
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| Q: Who's underdressed? A: The one no one can remember. |
It's hard for us in these casual days to think of such a rig as anything but dressy. But there was a time, long before any of us were around, when the lack of tails on a jacket meant you were dressing down for dinner. Tails meant white tie, a white waistcoat, and a tailcoat. Black tie, on the other hand, was the era's equivalent of a nice cashmere tracksuit. We've never had it so easy. Which is partly why dress codes when imposed—or politely suggested by the marketing department—often spread confusion. Corporate obsessions with optics mean making everyone happy is paramount. So increasingly we're offered a convenient medium: Come as you are. See how you feel. Have a great time. "Pish!" as Bertie Wooster would say. What we need is clear direction. You want everyone in a tux? Say so. Cool with a suit? Fine. At least we know where we stand. And then it's up to us to deliver. But deliver what exactly? |
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If a cummerbund isn't your thing, take a page from Paul Newman's book and wear a waistcoat. The idea is to ensure the white of your shirt doesn't peek out from below the button of your jacket. |
Let's assume, for the sake of argument, that you decide to go high. You might be in the minority; you may even envy the other guy in his chic work suit and hybrid sneakers. But you won't be wrong. The next questions are, "Where on earth did I leave all the bits from last time? Do they still fit? And, cripes, what condition are they in?" Alternatively, if you don't have a tux (or any of the trimmings for that matter), the question is, "Where do I start?" Both involve preparation—and not the day of. We're talking days, even weeks in advance. Chances are any invite that has a dress code on it is not happening tomorrow. In an ideal world, your formal outfit is gathered in James Bond-esque go bag. Tux? Check. Bow tie? Check. White pocket square? Check. Cufflinks and cummerbund? Check. But that only works if you keep it all together. Most of the fixings you can stuff in the pockets of your tux, so you know where they are for next time. Get the jacket pressed or, in a pinch (and very carefully, because it can separate the inner layers that give the garment its shape) steamed. A tux is the last thing that should look like you slept in it. Check for moth holes. (Trade secret: After dark no one will notice if there are any.) Try on those tuxedo pants. In the many moons since you last wore it, your tux may have gotten mysteriously snug. Best to know well in advance. |
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Dress studs, like the ones Sidney Poitier is wearing here, are optional these days. But as you see, they can look pretty great. |
If, however, you're just starting out, you're going to need to start from the ground up: a proper tux plus all the fixings. By all, I mean all. Number one, and the biggest investment, is the tux itself. Avoid anything identifiably trendy. In six months, you may regret it. Fortunately, a good tux can be had in various configurations from single-breasted to double, black or navy, shawl collar or peak—you find your own jam—from surprisingly affordable places like Suitsupply that do the elegant Italian look at pretty reasonable prices. A tux, it should be remembered, is not a seasonal or trend-driven thing. Chosen right—provided you don't eat all the pies—it's a very long-term investment. More classic options include Brooks Brothers or, for some Savile Row panache, Thom Sweeney. It ain't over yet. Black tie isn't about how far under the bar you can limbo, even if you have set the bar yourself. Wearing a straight tie with a tux (hello, Oscar dweebs) will not cut it. So, you'll need a bow tie. You can learn to tie one yourself or wear one of those pre-tied numbers, but nobody really notices the difference. Your shopping list should also include a cummerbund, which has a silly name and can be vaguely uncomfortable but is vital because it says, "Hey I'm not just wearing any old black suit here." You'll need an evening shirt, too. You can opt for a textured "marcella" (or piqué) bib on the front or, if you're going full 007, a pleat-front shirt that cannot be confused with any shirt you might wear to work. |
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Richard Gere serving up a killer formal look at Cannes in 1979. |
That really is the point here. Nothing in your tux outfit should be confused with stuff you might wear to the office or in front of a judge. A tux, and everything that goes with it, should be special, something that helps you rise to the occasion. For that to work, you need to choose it all with care and maintain it. Once you've done all that, the rest is mere preparation. And by the way, once you're in it, don't slouch. At least half of getting the best out of the tailoring you've invested in is knowing how to carry yourself in it. P. S. Want to chat about this story—or anything else? Email me at nicksullivanesquire@hearst.com. |
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